Overview of the Globalization of the “Beauty Industry”

Globalization of the Beauty Industry 1945-1980,”2 provides a comprehensive overview of the growth of beauty industries.
The modern beauty industry developed in three phases:

1. Fragrance and soaps: started in the U.S. and Western Europe. Demand for these products stemmed from mid-19th century urbanization that resulted in growing stench and infectious diseases.

2. Facial beauty products: demand came from increased visual awareness that accompanied commercial photography and advances in printing, including the mass circulation of female fashion magazines.

3. Transformative beauty products: lip stick, hair dyes, and mascara. From 1914 to 1945, beauty products, as soaps and toiletries, became nearly universal in developed countries. The US Great Depression forced companies to make beauty products affordable. During this period and beyond, beauty products were marketed and developed for different audiences and ethnicities.

In the developing world, such as in southern Africa and Asia, the spread of soap and hygiene products accompanied colonial efforts to “civilize” the population. When Japan sought to “modernize” in the late 1800’s, hand washing and hair washing became popular among the elites and face “whitening,” shaving of eyebrows, and teeth blackening (all traditional practices) were banned. The use of traditional white face creams for women became a practice only used on special occasions, such as weddings. So not only the products, but their use in general became globalized.

In the U.S., the 1950’s solidified the image of the tall, shapely, blond woman as the ideal beauty, popularized by Marilyn Monroe and the Barbie doll. Television played a major role through beauty advertisements and sponsored game shows (used to brand corporations and products lines). Increased disposable income led to mass consumption of beauty products during this period. Other Western countries learned about American hygiene and beauty products through Hollywood and the movie industry. Outside the U.S., restrictions on media advertisements and sponsored games shows slowed the diffusion of these products. Government regulations abroad posed challenges as well.

Beauty pageants, such as Miss World (started in 1951 by the UK) and Miss Universe (started in 1952 in the US), became globalized, with local contests being held all over the world. The Miss World’s first dark-skinned winner was Miss India in 1966, and the first visible winner of African descent was Miss Grenada in 1970. Miss Universe developed its own “international standard of beauty,” based on face, figure, proportions, and posture and local contests began using that standard to choose representatives. US cosmetic industries co-opted the winners to become international ambassadors of their beauty products, further branding a certain image as beautiful.

By the 1980’s, local and ethnic identities in beauty ideals were being re-asserted and the market became more segmented by ethnicity, gender, and age. Yet lack of body odor, white natural teeth, slim figures, pale skins and round eyes were considered “international standards of beauty” and were being diffused all over the world. The trends and marketing practices mentioned in this historical analysis are still be used today, with even more success, as barriers (such as media advertising, government regulations, and technology) are further decreasing.